What Is the “Steve McQueen” Rolex 1655?

A fake Rolex 1655 Steve McQueen is a copy of the Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655, a 40mm steel watch Rolex built from 1971 to 1985. It carries a fixed 24-hour steel bezel, a matte black dial, and a large orange 24-hour hand. Replica versions sell in three grades: budget builds under $120, mid-tier automatics from $150 to $250, and high-grade Swiss-movement copies above $300.

Rolex built the 1655 for cave explorers and people who worked through polar winter, where a 24-hour hand told day from night. On this reference the 24-hour hand is locked to the hour hand, so it works as a day/night pointer. That one detail separates it from a GMT-Master.

Why Do People Call It the Steve McQueen Rolex?

No photo shows Steve McQueen wearing a ref. 1655. Italian collectors started using the name in the 1980s, linking the watch to his rugged screen image, and Rolex never adopted it. Auction houses and dealers keep the nickname because buyers search for it.

Ref. 1655 Specs at a Glance

  • Production: 1971 to 1985, the first Explorer II reference
  • Case: 40mm stainless steel, 20mm lug width, drilled lugs on many examples
  • Bezel: fixed steel with an engraved 24-hour scale, non-rotating
  • Dial: matte black, white printed text, round lume plots, several MK variations
  • Hands: orange arrow 24-hour hand, steel hour and minute hands, lollipop seconds
  • Movement: Rolex cal. 1575, 19,800 vph, no independent hour hand
  • Crystal: domed plexiglass
  • Bracelet: Oyster ref. 78360 with 580 end links on later examples
  • Water resistance: 100m from the factory, never promised on a copy

How to Check a Fake Rolex 1655 Before You Buy

Most faults on a replica sit in four places: the bezel engraving, the dial printing, the crystal, and the crown. Work through these checks with the seller's photos or a video call before you pay.

Bezel

  • Genuine scales have crisp, brushed numerals. Polished or shallow numerals are a cheap tell.
  • The bezel does not turn. A rotating bezel on a 1655 copy means the factory used a GMT-Master case.
  • Check that 12, 6, 18 and 24 sit in the right spots and that the font matches the era.

Dial and Hands

  • Finish should be matte, not glossy. Shine under a light points to a low-grade dial.
  • The orange 24-hour hand should match the orange on the printed scale.
  • Lume plots should be round and even. Uneven plots show up in every photo.
  • Early dials carry the frog foot coronet and the rail dial layout. Most replicas copy one specific MK version, so know which one you want.

Crystal, Crown, and Case

  • Plexi crystal, domed. Sapphire on a vintage-style 1655 reads wrong in a photo.
  • Twinlock-style crown profile, not a Triplock. A Triplock sits taller and wider.
  • 40mm across, 20mm lugs, about 13mm thick with the plexi dome.
  • Genuine case backs are plain. Etched logos or added text on a copy are wrong.

Movement

Replica 1655s use one of three movements: a quartz module, an Asian DG3804 GMT automatic, or an ETA 2836-2 with a GMT module. The DG3804 beats at 21,600 vph and the ETA at 28,800 vph, while the real cal. 1575 runs at 19,800 vph. Sweep speed is the fastest way to judge a build when the watch is in your hand.

Replica Grades Compared

  • Budget, $60 to $120: quartz or a rough automatic, stamped bezel, mineral glass, wrong crown height.
  • Mid, $150 to $250: DG3804 or Asian 2836, decent matte dial, plexi crystal, 316L steel case, drilled lugs.
  • High, $300 to $500 and up: engraved bezel, correct dial variant, Swiss ETA 2836 with GMT module, real lume, better Oyster bracelet and clasp.

Mistakes Buyers Make

  • Expecting a jump hour hand. The 1655 has none, real or fake.
  • Swimming with it. No replica carries a factory water resistance rating, and gaskets vary between batches.
  • Buying from a photo set with no movement shot and no timestamp.
  • Mixing up the 1655 with the 16550 or 16570, which use different hands, bezels, and dials.
  • Forgetting that service is limited. Find a watchmaker who works on copies before you order.

Practical and Legal Notes

A replica is not a Rolex and comes with no brand warranty or service network. Trademark rules differ by country, and customs can seize a copy at the border in some places, so check your local law first. Treat the purchase as a fashion buy, not an investment.

FAQ

Did Steve McQueen wear a Rolex Explorer II 1655?

No photo confirms it. McQueen wore a Submariner in the pictures most often tied to him, and the Explorer II link is a nickname that grew after his death.

Why is the Explorer II 1655 called the Steve McQueen?

Italian collectors began using the name in the 1980s and dealers kept it because it sells. Rolex has never used the nickname in catalogs or ads.

What is the difference between a 1655 and a GMT-Master?

The 1655 has a fixed 24-hour bezel and a 24-hour hand locked to the hour hand. A GMT-Master has a rotating bezel and a hand you can set to a second time zone.

Which movement is best in a fake Rolex 1655?

An ETA 2836-2 with a GMT module is the top pick for reliability and spare parts. A DG3804 works as a lower-cost option, and quartz is the cheapest route with the least upkeep.

What size is the Explorer II 1655?

40mm case, 20mm lug width, about 13mm thick. It wears smaller than the modern 42mm Explorer II.