Fake IW371498 covers two different searches: a buyer who was offered an IWC Portugieser Chronograph and wants to know whether it is genuine, and a buyer who wants that reference on the wrist without the genuine price. For the second group, the top pick is a stainless steel Portugieser Chronograph copy with a 41 mm case, a working chronograph (30-minute counter at 12, small seconds at 6) and a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, because those three details cover the checks a reseller or jeweler makes first. Every option below is judged on six criteria: case size and profile, dial layout and printing, chronograph behavior, caseback and crown markings, strap and clasp hardware, and finish consistency across the whole watch.

What the IW371498 reference actually is

The IW3714 family is the earlier Portugieser Chronograph generation: a 40.9 mm steel case, leaf hands, two subdials, no date window, and a solid caseback over a chronograph movement built on a Valjoux base. IWC later replaced that generation with the IW3716 family, which uses a 41 mm case and an in-house chronograph calibre. The final digits of an IWC reference normally flag a dial and strap combination inside the line, so the 98 is a configuration marker rather than a separate watch.

That matters for authentication. A seller who calls a watch an IW371498 is claiming one specific dial and strap build inside the 3714 generation. If the case measures 44 mm, if there is a date window at 3, or if the movement turns out to be a quartz module, the reference number on the paperwork is decoration.

The build that gets closest

A 41 mm steel case with a functional mechanical chronograph, two subdials at 12 and 6, no date, and a domed sapphire crystal is the configuration that survives a close look. This is the version worth choosing if the watch will be seen by people who handle Portugieser Chronographs themselves.

Pros

  • Subdial spacing at 12 and 6 matches the reference, so the dial reads correctly at a glance.
  • No date window removes the single most common tell on cheap Portugieser copies.
  • A working mechanical chronograph means pushers that snap instead of mush.

Cons

  • Costs more than the quartz and decorative-pusher versions sold alongside it.
  • Needs servicing like any mechanical chronograph.
  • Thicker than the genuine watch in most builds, which shows under a tight cuff.

Best for: buyers who want one convincing watch rather than three cheap ones.

Criterion 1: case size, thickness, and lug profile

The genuine case has a thin bezel and long, gently curved lugs, which leaves the dial looking larger than the number suggests. Copies lose that impression when the mid-case grows in height or when the lugs straighten out.

Pros

  • A correct 41 mm width sits well on wrists from about 16 cm upward.
  • Curved lugs keep the case from floating above the wrist.
  • Thin bezel keeps the dial-to-case ratio believable.

Cons

  • Many copies run 1 to 2 mm thicker, which pushes the crown into the back of the hand.
  • Polished flanks show machining marks under direct light.
  • Wrong lug angle causes the strap to sit away from the case.

Best for: anyone who wears a watch with a shirt cuff, where thickness is visible.

Criterion 2: dial layout and printing

Applied numerals, thin leaf hands, and light printing are the combination that budget factories struggle with. Look at the weight of the brand text, the length of the small seconds hand, and whether the dial washes out at an angle.

Pros

  • Correct subdial positions and hand lengths carry most of the visual weight.
  • Anti-reflective coating on both sides keeps the dial legible outdoors.
  • Applied numerals catch light the way the reference does.

Cons

  • Heavy or smeared printing is the fastest way to spot a copy in photographs.
  • Subdials spaced too far apart break the symmetry of the dial.
  • Missing coating makes the crystal look grey instead of clear.

Best for: buyers who care about how the watch photographs.

Criterion 3: chronograph behavior

Pusher feel separates a serious build from a shell. Start, stop, and reset should each give a short, clean click, and the reset should return both hands to zero without hesitation.

Pros

  • A real chronograph movement is the strongest single argument for a higher-tier build.
  • Sweeping chronograph seconds hand matches the mechanical reference.
  • Clean reset shows the movement was assembled with care.

Cons

  • Decorative pushers and quartz chronographs are still common in this reference.
  • A chronograph that runs while the pusher is only half engaged wears the mechanism.
  • Running the chronograph constantly shortens service intervals.

Best for: people who actually time things instead of treating the pushers as decoration.

Criterion 4: caseback, crown, and reference markings

The caseback is where a copy is easiest to check. Engraving depth, font, and the reference number all have to line up with the generation the watch claims to be.

Pros

  • Deep engraving with crisp edges suggests a case made for this model instead of a generic shell.
  • A signed crown is a small detail that most copies skip.
  • Correct caseback type for the generation keeps the story consistent.

Cons

  • Shallow laser etching with rounded letters is common.
  • Mismatched numbers between the caseback, the paperwork, and the dial description.
  • A display back on a reference that should be solid invites a movement inspection the watch may not survive.

Best for: buyers who expect the watch to be handled by other collectors.

Criterion 5: strap, clasp, and hardware

Strap quality is cheap to fix and expensive to fake. Spring bar fit, buckle finish, and leather stiffness all show up within a week of wear.

Pros

  • A well-finished buckle and a supple strap make an average case look better.
  • Correct spring bar fit prevents rattle and keeps the watch centered.
  • Aftermarket straps are easy to swap, so this is the least risky corner to cut.

Cons

  • Embossed alligator grain looks plastic next to real leather.
  • Sharp buckle edges catch on sleeves and cuffs.
  • Included straps on cheap builds often need replacing within weeks.

Best for: daily wearers who would rather replace one strap than send back a watch.

Criterion 6: finish consistency

Finishing is judged across the whole object, not in one spot. Brushing should run in one direction, polished bevels should stay crisp, and the transition between the two should sit on an edge rather than in the middle of a flat surface.

Pros

  • Even brushing hides fingerprints and small scratches.
  • Crisp bevels catch light the way the reference case does.
  • Consistent finishing holds up in close-up photos.

Cons

  • Rounded lug edges are the most common giveaway on lower-tier cases.
  • Over-polished surfaces look flat under fluorescent light.
  • Mixed brushing directions show as a patchwork on the case flanks.

Best for: buyers who inspect a watch in hand before deciding.

How to inspect a watch you were offered

  1. Measure the case width and thickness with calipers instead of trusting the listing.
  2. Check for a date window at 3, which the reference does not have.
  3. Look at the printing under a loupe: edges should be sharp, not feathered.
  4. Start, stop, and reset the chronograph three times and watch for a clean return to zero.
  5. Turn the watch over and read the caseback engraving for depth and letter shape.
  6. Compare the reference number on the caseback against the dial and strap combination claimed.
  7. Ask what movement is inside and whether it is mechanical or quartz.
  8. Check the crown and pushers for play, which points to a thin mid-case.

Which build fits your use case

Office and daily wear

A 41 mm steel case with a leather strap and a working chronograph is the sensible choice. Thin profile matters more than movement decoration when the watch lives under a cuff.

Collection display

Step up to the tier with crisp case finishing, deep engraving, and a signed crown. These are the details people notice when they pick the watch up.

First copy purchase

Start with the plainest dial and strap combination in the line. Fewer applied details means fewer places for a factory to get the proportions wrong.

Bottom line

The reference number in the listing tells you very little. Case size, subdial positions, the absence of a date, chronograph feel, and caseback engraving tell you almost everything. Decide which of those six criteria you will actually notice in daily wear, buy the build that satisfies them, and treat the paperwork as the last thing worth checking.