The short answer: a fake IW371468 gives itself away in four places. The movement, the dial printing, the case finishing, and the caseback engraving. Everything else, the strap, the box, the papers, the seller's story, can be swapped or manufactured. This guide covers what the reference actually is, which details separate a genuine Portugieser Chronograph from a copy, and how to judge the current high-tier replicas before you spend money on either.
What the IW371468 reference actually is
IW371468 sits inside the IW3714 block, which is the Portugieser Chronograph family from IWC Schaffhausen. Watches in that block share a recognizable formula: a steel case around 41 mm, a two-register chronograph layout with the 30-minute counter at 12 o'clock and small running seconds at 6, a date window at 3, applied numerals, and feuille hands. References in this block typically run the calibre 79350, a chronograph module built on the Valjoux 7750 base that beats at 4 Hz.
Because the IW3714 block covers many dial and case combinations, the reference number alone does not tell you everything. Confirm the exact dial color, hand finish, and strap pairing against published records before you trust any listing, genuine or otherwise.
The four details that expose a fake
1. Movement behavior
A genuine 79350-based watch has a pusher feel that is firm and clean at the start and end of the chronograph run. The sweep is smooth at 4 Hz, the date flips in one motion, and the winding is quiet. A weak copy shows the opposite: mushy pushers, a stuttering or ticking sweep, a date wheel that sits off center in the window, and rotor noise you can hear across a table.
2. Dial printing and layout
Look at the spacing between the numerals and the subdial rings, the thickness of the brand text, and the letter spacing in the city name. Copies usually print text slightly too heavy, place the subdials a fraction too far apart, and use a date font that is a touch too wide. Under a loupe, genuine printing sits flat and sharp. Copy printing shows rounded edges and inconsistent ink weight.
3. Case and caseback
Run a fingernail along the lug edges and the bezel transition. Genuine case work is crisp and even. Copies show soft edges, uneven brushing, and a polished bevel that wanders. On many IW3714 examples the caseback is solid, so the movement cannot be seen from outside. That makes the engraving quality of the reference number between the lugs a useful check, since copies often stamp a generic caseback or a number that does not match the dial.
4. Crystal, strap, and clasp
The sapphire should show anti-reflective treatment and a clean edge at the case line. Aftermarket crystals sit proud or show a visible ring. On the strap, check stitch density and the shape of the buckle or deployant. Copy hardware is thinner, the tang is shorter, and the engravings are shallow.
Genuine IW371468
- Pros: correct calibre, correct proportions, serviceable by a watchmaker, holds value against future resale, engraving and finishing match the reference.
- Cons: costs many times a copy, needs service records to prove condition, and the reference number must be verified against paperwork.
High-tier copy of the IW371468
- Pros: accurate 41 mm proportions and two-register layout, correct dial color options, wearable daily without insurance concerns, easy to replace if damaged.
- Cons: movement is not a 79350 and cannot be serviced the same way, caseback engraving rarely matches the dial, and pusher feel is the most common failure point.
Which one fits your use case
If you want to wear the Portugieser look and you accept that the movement under the caseback is not the real thing, a high-tier copy is the practical buy, provided you inspect the pushers, the printing, and the caseback stamping first. If you plan to keep the watch long term, pass it on, or have it serviced by a watchmaker who knows the calibre, buy genuine and insist on records.
Pre-purchase checklist
- Photograph the reference engraving between the lugs and compare it to the dial configuration.
- Time the chronograph for a full 30-minute run and watch for a stutter at the sweep.
- Check subdial spacing against the numerals rather than against a photo of another watch.
- Ask for a close-up of the date window alignment at 3 o'clock.
- Inspect the caseback lettering depth and the finish on the lug edges.
- Confirm the strap stitching and hardware match the reference generation.
- Get a return window in writing before payment.