A fake Blancpain 5200-0113-52A is a counterfeit copy of a Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe reference, and it normally reveals itself through case finishing, bezel feel, dial printing, and caseback engraving rather than one obvious flaw. Genuine examples leave the factory with tight tolerances, a sapphire display back, and movement finishing no copy matches at copy prices. If you are judging a suspect watch, work from the outside in and check each point below.

Quick answer: what gives a fake 5200-0113-52A away?

• Bezel action that feels loose, gritty, or turns without a firm, even click.
• Dial text that looks thick, fuzzy under a loupe, or spaced unevenly.
• Applied markers with dull edges and lume sitting proud of the metal.
• Caseback engraving that is shallow, laser-flat, or missing depth between letters.
• A movement visible through the back with no striped bridges, no chamfered edges, and no branded rotor.
• Crown guards and case flanks that do not match reference photography.

No single item proves anything on its own. Two or three together almost always do.

Why this reference gets copied so often

The Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe is a recognizable dive watch with a clean, readable dial and a case shape that photographs well. That combination is attractive to counterfeiters because the design is simple enough to approximate and famous enough to sell on looks alone. Buyers who only see a listing photo, and never handle the watch, are the usual targets.

The 5200 platform adds a chronograph, which raises the difficulty of a convincing copy. Pusher feel, sub-dial spacing, and the alignment of the chronograph hand at zero are all hard to fake well. Those are the first places to look when the reference number 5200-0113-52A is claimed.

Case and finishing checks

Start with the case in daylight, not on a lightbox photo.

• Run a fingernail along the case flanks. A real Bathyscaphe transitions smoothly from brushed to polished surfaces.
• Look at the lug tops. Copies often leave tool marks or a wavy polish line.
• Compare crown size and grip. A copy crown tends to feel thin and turns with a rough thread.
• Check the crown guards for symmetry from the front and from above.

Bezel and crystal

A genuine dive bezel turns with resistance and lands on hard, defined clicks. A copy may spin freely, wobble sideways, or stop between markers. Check that the bezel insert sits flush with the case and that its markings are crisp, not silk-screened with soft edges. Under the crystal, look for the anti-reflective treatment. Genuine crystals look almost invisible at an angle, while cheaper copies produce a blue or purple wash.

Dial, hands, and date

Dial work is where most fakes fall apart under magnification.

• Printing should be sharp with consistent stroke width on every letter.
• Markers should be set straight, with even gaps around the dial.
• Hands should be cleanly cut, with lume applied level with the metal frame.
• The date should sit centered in its window with the same font as the reference.

Photograph the dial with your phone and zoom in. Copy dials usually show jagged edges that are invisible to the naked eye.

Caseback and movement

Serial and reference engraving on a genuine watch is deep, even, and readable at an angle. Copies often use shallow etching that disappears in low light, and the font is subtly wrong. Because the Bathyscaphe uses a display back, you can also inspect the movement. Look for striped bridges, polished bevels, blued or polished screws, and a rotor marked with the maker's name. A plain, undecorated movement behind a luxury dial is a strong warning sign.

Have a watchmaker open the case if the seller allows it. Timegrapher readings and a look at the keyless works take only a few minutes.

Bracelet, strap, and hardware

Check the clasp engraving, the spring bar fit, and how the strap meets the lugs. Genuine hardware has no sharp edges and closes with a solid, quiet snap. Sailcloth and rubber straps on copies often smell strongly of rubber, feel stiffer, and show molding flash along the edges.

Paperwork, serials, and price sanity

Ask for the warranty card, the inner and outer boxes, and the original purchase receipt. Compare the serial on the caseback with the card, then check that the reference on the card reads exactly 5200-0113-52A. A genuine reference sells for many thousands of dollars, so a listing far under market is a warning, not a bargain. Sellers who refuse an in-person inspection or insist on payment methods with no buyer protection are another red flag.

What to do if the watch is fake

Stop the deal, keep every message, and photograph the watch before returning it. If you already own it, a watchmaker can confirm the movement and document the findings in writing, which helps with a chargeback or a dispute. If you knowingly want the look of a Bathyscaphe without the original price, buy from a seller who states plainly that the watch is a replica and describes the movement honestly. That way there is no confusion later about what you own.